Here the author is recapturing her experiences in the last leg of a voyage taken long ago- her journey back to India on the SS Corfu. In the process, she realises that a voyage is both fun and learning. This is the third and final part of the series “Across the seas on three passenger ships.” For the first two parts please scroll to the end of this post
After disembarking from R,M.S Queen Elizabeth we went to London. After a few refreshing days of site seeing, we were ready for another voyage. The third ship we travelled on was called SS Corfu. (S.S. stands for steam ship).
Have you ever heard this name before? It is the name of an island in Greece. Probably, the ship was named after this beautiful island.
Corfu was a fine ship with just one funnel. She was 543 ft. long, weighed 14,293 tonnes and had a speed of 18 knots. She was smaller than Queen Elizabeth but bigger than Caledonia.
She was operated by the British shipping company called P&O (Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company). She was made in Scotland like the other two ships. Launched in 1931 as R.M.S. Corfu along with her sister ship R.M.S. Carthage she plied the London, Bombay, China route.
She served as an Armed Merchant Cruiser until 1944. She then served as a troop carrier till the World War got over. She carried thousands of troops at that time though she was designed only to carry 177 first-class passengers, 314 second-class passengers and 279 crew members.
Post the war and after a major refit, she resumed services with the P&O and came to be known as SS Corfu on the same route. After years of service, she was eventually scrapped in 1961 at Osaka, Japan.
My experience on SS Corfu
When we first went on board we were delighted to meet Vidya and Nirmal and their parents. My mother and their mother had been co-teachers in a school in Hyderabad. It was a happy coincidence that they had booked on the same ship.
As SS Corfu moved out of the docks people lined the railings of the deck and waved goodbye to friends and relatives. Initially, there was confusion but soon everyone settled down. Thereafter there was an unhurried and tranquil pace. It helped us to adjust to the new routine.
The experience of the two previous voyages made my sister and me more confident. Besides we were a year older than when we had first set out and had Vidya and Nirmal for company. We felt sure that our days on the ship would be full of new experiences and excitement.
Life on board was truly a luxury. There was comfort, entertainment, recreation, good food and fine service so that the passengers forgot that they were at sea. The crew was welcoming, respectful and polite from the moment we stepped aboard.
Nurseries arranged meals and activities for children. Children and adults had different mealtimes. There were parties galore for children with attractive invitation and menu cards. Adults dressed for dinner and evening entertainment.
There were people from all classes on board. There were both first class and second class passengers. We were travelling as second class passengers. All seemed to be happy that they were travelling, as long as they did not drown.
Most people went to their cabins only to rest or sleep. The centre of life on the ship was the dining saloon and the deck. One could meet interesting people and forge friendships there. People liked to read, play checkers or chess, chat, smoke or laze on the deck.
We children always loved making rounds to the deck because there was something magical about it. There was plenty of air, natural light and the sight and sound of the restless sea. In the Mediterranean Sea, the sight of leaping fish was a treat for our eyes.
I vividly remember coffee time aboard SS Corfu. It was served at 10 a.m. The stewards would come to the deck with trays of coffee, cocktails, ice cream or lime juice and serve the passengers. We children always chose ice-cream and would delve into it with great relish. Sometimes we would ask for more.
After finishing the ice cream we would race to collect the empty cigar boxes and aluminium cocktail sticks discarded by the adults. These aluminium sticks were short and light with a point on both sides, almost like an arrow. They were of varied colours like gold, silver, red, blue and green. (They are for sale on ebay.co.uk )
They were used as skewers for holding decorative toppings like cherries, in cocktails. The name ‘Corfu’ was etched at one end of the stick. We found them attractive. My sister filled two of her cigar boxes with these collected cocktail sticks. I had only a few.
They remained with us for many years as souvenirs from our voyage. We also collected some of the decorative menu cards that were printed for children. I have two of them here on display.
One day my sister and I went to Vidya and Nirmal’s cabin to call them. Vidya was dressed and ready to accompany us to the deck. Nirmal was however on the bed fussing. Suddenly he jumped up and pressed a bell. It was almost immediately answered by a steward. Nirmal ordered a cup of ice cream. He was promptly served and I was immensely surprised. I never knew that even a child could order and be served in such regal fashion!
While in the Mediterranean Sea we saw a rare and beautiful sight. A sea plane came close to our ship. Something from the ship was transferred to the plane, I think. I don’t remember properly. It could have been mail that had to be delivered fast.
The stop at Port Said, Egypt
The most memorable part of our voyage on the SS Corfu began after we reached Port Said. Thereafter began the very exciting transit through the Suez Canal. Back in 1958, I was excited only because the excitement of everyone in the ship, including my parents, had caught on.
Today, I am thrilled to present to you whatever I remember about the transit, along with the information I have gathered because I know the significance of the Suez Canal.
The Suez Canal is a sea-level man-made waterway that connects the Mediterranean Sea to the Indian Ocean, by way of the Isthmus of Suez and the Red Sea. This canal is perceived as a boundary separating Africa from Asia.
It is also the shortest possible maritime route from Europe to Asia. Otherwise, the ships have to circumnavigate Africa to reach India. The canal has reduced the distance, time and money needed to travel from Europe to India and vice versa.
It was constructed between the period 1859 and 1869 and opened in 1869. The main architect was the French diplomat Ferdinand de Lesseps. It stretches 120 miles from Port Said (Egypt) on the Mediterranean Sea to the city of Suez, in the South.
Originally it was 200 feet wide. Later it was widened and deepened to permit the passage of larger ships. Initially, two-way traffic was not permitted through the canal.
It is one of the world’s most heavily used shipping lanes. In a year, about 21,000 vessels go through it. It can be used by any vessel belonging to any nation. The toll money generates revenue for Egypt.
Countries kept vying for control over the Suez Canal. Its great value for trade made it a nearly instant source of conflict. After the Suez crisis of 1956 (war between Egypt and the combined forces of Israel, England and France) the superpowers relinquished control over the canal to Egypt.
One morning I woke up to learn that the ship had already berthed at Port Said. It was the first port of call. The passengers had been housed in the ship for long and many were eager to get out.
It offered a chance for adventure, meeting locals and buying local souvenirs. After breakfast, all of us made a dash for the deck. We were greeted by a heady mix of sights, sounds and smells.
As we looked on, a few people in boats pushed off from the shore to meet our ship. I wondered who they were. When they came alongside us, I realized they were vendors on boats. With a distinctive cry, each one advertised his wares.
Some of them clambered up to the deck using ropes while others threw baskets tied to the end of ropes to the deck. The customers lowered the basket after putting money in it. Then the vendor filled it with apples, oranges or whatever was being sold. The buying, selling and the haggling were an entertaining novelty for us all.
Some adventure loving passengers disembarked for a site seeing excursion to Cairo by taxi. They wanted to see the River Nile and the majestic pyramids. They could rejoin the ship several hours later at the port of Suez. Like us, most passengers did not step outside because they were afraid of being mugged.
After a while the deck was agog with excitement. We were told a local magician who was known as Gully-Gully man had come aboard to demonstrate his magic. He was bulging and comical but looked sinister too. He magically produced baby chicks from a few people and enthralled Vidya, Nirmal, my sister and myself.
However, my parents took us away hastily. When we reached our cabin my father quickly checked to see if the port hole was securely closed. The circular window in a cabin is known as port hole. It faces the sea and admits light and air into the cabin. The steward had told my father that Port Said was notorious for thieves who came in through the port holes while everyone was engaged on the deck.
Crossing the Suez Canal
Shortly after tea our ship was ready to move, ready to navigate the Suez Canal. Port Said was the Northern entrance to the Canal. There were all kinds of vessels – ferries, cargo ships, naval ships and passenger ships.
All had to heave their anchors and be in the queue. They could move only as a convoy. Each vessel had to keep a minimum distance from the other.
As they started, three to four Suez Canal pilots came in small boats and boarded our ship at various points. Pilots help negotiate the canal because they have better knowledge of local situations and rules.
Along with other passengers, we also lined the railings of the deck. As the canal was narrow we could see both its banks from the ship. The land beyond the bank was sandy and arid. It was marked by sparseness and lack of bustle.
We saw a few date palms and then some Bedouins (Arabs) waving to us. However, excitement mounted as we saw broken and sunken ships that were witnesses to the Suez crisis in the recent past.
The descending sun had lighted up the landscape with a flood of golden light. We got ready to sleep as SS Corfu crossed the longest canal in the world!
The passage to the Southern end of the canal ended at Port Suez but we were fast asleep by then. We were told it took 16 hours to exit the canal and enter the Red Sea because the ships were crawling. It was an awesome journey!
The final stretch before reaching home
Next morning, we woke up to see the Red Sea. My mother told us that it was the same Red Sea that was mentioned in the Bible.
According to the Bible God had miraculously parted the waters of the Red Sea to let the Israelites escape from Egypt to safety. They were led by Moses.
I saw that the Red Sea had a reddish shade. Much later in college, I learnt that it was so because of the russet or red algae that bloomed in its waters.
The next port of call was Aden. It is presently the capital of Yemen. Suez and Aden were about 1300 miles apart. At Aden also many vendors came to the ship’s deck with goods ranging from clothes to watches. My father bought some ‘halwa’ like sweet from one of them. He finally had to throw it because the coconut in it tasted stale.
A mixed crowd of people had assembled at the port. There were Indians too. A British child spotted a woman in black purdah (veil) and innocently asked his mother “Mummy what animal is that?” It amused us immensely.
After Aden, SS Corfu was bound for Bombay. A farewell party for children was announced. All the children went in fancy dresses and we had fun and frolic.
When the ship entered the Indian Ocean we began to look forward to reaching Bombay. When we came in sight of the Indian coast we felt animated. Then the rows of palms which adorn Bombay Port came distinctly into view. It was a relief to be back home.
Our voyages had come to an end after eighteen days on Corfu. R.M.S Caledonia had been homely and comfortable. R.M.S Queen Elizabeth had been magnificent and luxurious. SS Corfu gave us excitement and knowledge.
Our experiences were wonderful and unforgettable.
Enjoyed reading this post? You might like browsing these as well:
Across the seas on R.M.S Queen Elizabeth (Part 2)
Across the seas on R.M.S Caledonia (Part 1)
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Life like it was in Delhi of the early 60s
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Hi! My name is Rubitah. I’m a Content Writer certified Life Coach, Counselor, Social Work professional and the Founder of Being Rubitah. Over the years through my professional and personal life, I have realized that prayers and love can do wonders to family life once you come to terms with yourself and surrender to God. Do you relate to me? Then you may like what I post here! Read more about me
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