If somebody had asked me a few months ago where Matheran was, I would have been ignorant. Today I know where it is and can picturize it because we visited it last September.
My husband and I had gone to Mumbai where our son Robin, his wife Sweety and five year old daughter Vania live. Robin arranged this trip for all five of us.
Where is Matheran?
Matheran is in the Raigarh district of Maharashtra just 90 Km. from Mumbai and 120 Km from Pune. It is a very small hill station located at the top of the Sahyadri ranges/ Western Ghats and about 800metres/2,625 feet above sea level.
The British developed this place as a get away from the intense summer heat of the plains. Matheran means ‘Forest on the forehead’.
How did we reach Matheran?
We got up early one Saturday morning and left for Dadar Railway Station, by taxi. Around 7 ‘O’ clock we boarded a train to Neral junction. From Neral we took another taxi to a place called Dasturi Naka.
The taxi went through winding roads that went uphill and gave us a panoramic view of the western ghats. The gentle slopes looked lush and beautiful as monsoon time had just got over. Shimmering streams and waterfalls dotted the hills. Some streams were towards the roadside and Vania was delighted to spot them.
The car park at Dasturi was bustling with activity. There were people, cars, horses, rikshaws and plenty of monkeys too. Beyond Dasturi Naka no vehicles were allowed because the region around has been declared eco sensitive by the Ministry of Environment.
Matheran was 4 ½ km. away. The toy train services had been suspended. So my husband, son and daughter-in-law chose to go on horseback. Little Vania rode along with her mother. I was afraid of mounting a horse and so I chose the hand pulled rikshaw.
The ride to Matheran
I was not comfortable with this unusual mode of transport. The sight of the heavy iron vehicle filled me with apprehension. It looked a bit rusty and worn out.
I dreaded the thought of it giving away or me falling out of it. After I climbed in, the rikshaw propellers took their positions. One man pulled the rikshaw while the other two pushed it. Soon we began the climb.
The rest of my family, on horses, overtook us. It was relieving to see that a horseman was guiding each of the horses with a rope.
I had to be in a half sitting half lying position with two pieces of luggage at my feet. As we began the climb the rikshaw men kept talking to each other in Marathi. I looked out at the wooded area around. I dare not shift positions for fear of upsetting their balance.
The path uphill was stony and uneven. They seemed to be straining to navigate when we came to turns and when confronted with another rikshaw or horse from the opposite side.
When we reached Matheran’s market area the ground became smoother. They rested the front of the rikshaw on the ground and left me to go and drink water. Only two men returned. Apparently the remaining stretch would not be too difficult.
The market area was full of youngsters. They flocked around eateries and bakeries. They had all trekked up the abandoned tracks of the toy train. We passed a garden, some lodges, the police station, the post office and finally reached our destination.
The journey took 1 ½ hrs. My family was waiting for me there. I had been reading out the story of ‘Black Beauty’ to Vania while we were in Mumbai.
So she excitedly told me that the horse her ‘Dada’ (Daddy) was riding was Black Beauty because it was black and handsome with a white star on its forehead just like the horse in the book.
She further told me the horse my husband rode was just like ‘Ginger’ of the story and the horse she and her mother rode was ‘Merry Legs’.
It was a happy coincidence that she was amidst horses soon after she had heard this story related to horses.
Dune Barr House in Matheran
At Matheran we stayed at Dune Barr House, a colonial style hotel. It is a 170 yr. old mansion that had been built for Captain Barr of the Royal Army.
Subsequently it was owned by an eminent Parsi family for decades. Today it belongs to the Nimraana group of hotels. It has 11 rooms furnished in grand heritage style.
The rooms are named after known British, Parsi and Bohra families of Mumbai. Our room was called ‘Kotwal’. Both ours and my son’s rooms were gigantic and had high ceilings. They had a mix of modern and heritage furniture.
The beds were four poster and the couches big. Framed photographs of important people from the British era adorned the walls.
The plan of this mansion reminded me of my uncle’s house in Thiruananthapuram, which was much smaller, though. My uncle had bought it from an Englishman who was leaving India.
Each of the rooms on the first floor opened into a gigantic verandah. In my Uncle’s house the verandah portion is enclosed and serves as a drawing room.
The verandah of the Dune Barr House is called ‘Verandah in the Forest’ and is the restaurant of the hotel. The chairs and tables there were covered with pretty linen. A flight of steps from the verandah leads to an open area or yard below. There is a table and some chairs in the yard too. On one side of the yard is a pool.
During our very brief stay we had a few meals sitting in the Verandah. They serve both Indian and European cuisine. It is made in the hotel itself by their chefs while the vegetables, meat and eggs come from their own farms.
They don’t use any readymade, canned or frozen food. The bread, jam and pastries served are home made. While we enjoyed the food, one of staff stood there with a sling and stones to ward off intruding and greedy monkeys.
Charlotte Lake
In the evening we set out for Charlotte Lake which was just a few metres away. The ground was uneven and stony. So I had difficulty walking in my chappals but the others had worn good walking shoes.
The lake area was packed with youngsters. Some sat by the lake while some plunged into the lake. They laughed and screamed as the naughty monkeys snatched their food, water bottles and soft drinks. The monkeys were the snatchers and thieves of this little hill station. The owners of the food kiosks near the lake had to pelt stones to drive them away.
Evening at the Verandah in the Forest
When it began to drizzle we strolled back to the hotel. We ordered tea and pakoras and enjoyed them at the ‘Verandah in the Forest’. As I sat there I felt at peace. It was relaxing to be away from the din of traffic and from the constant sound of the television or the mobile phone. There were no televisions in this hotel and no Wi-Fi connectivity.
It was freedom to meditate and think constructively without the television channels relentlessly disturbing and distracting your thoughts.
I could not help thinking of the times when Captain Barr and his family were alive. Perhaps their only entertainments were walking, trekking, swimming which were all good for health and kept one close to nature.
Perhaps they had grand parties in the ‘Verandah’. I could imagine sophisticated men and women in party attire talking, laughing and dancing here in this Verandah.
Some would have been sitting at these very tables with uniformed stewards serving them. I was sure there would have been a resident nurse and a visiting doctor. The old and tall trees around may have been silent witnesses to the happenings of yester-years.
Late in the evening we spent our time playing caroms in the Verandah. Vania was attracted to the sling kept in the drawing room. We taught her how to use it. She remembered and understood the story of ‘David and Goliath’ better after this exercise.
When it grew chill we shifted to the drawing room and played games like ‘Snakes and ladders’ and ‘Ludo’. It was fun playing them after so many years! The hotel had a stack of these indoor games and some books.
We had dinner at the grand dining room of this grand mansion. We sat on one side of an eighteen-seater oak table and were served by candle light. It was a magical experience!
Going back
On Sunday morning we got ready for our return journey. John, the manager of the hotel had been a good host. He advised us not to travel by horse as some horses were disobedient and dropped their riders.
He felt hand pulled rikshaws were safer and added that there was no need to feel guilty about travelling by them because it was the only means of livelihood for some of the locals.
My husband, Robin and Sweety decided to trek down the track of the toy train while Vania and I travelled by the rikshaw. Vania sat on my lap.
The visit to Matheran was an extraordinary holiday experience. It took us away from the maddening crowd and the monotony of daily life. We had a week end free from technology. The refreshing weather and the fauna and flora around helped us unwind and get closer to nature.
The happiness effect of just being out of doors is great. Dune Barr house was unique because it gave us a taste of colonial style living. It is a perfect place for a serene vacation. For those seeking adventure Matheran offers trekking and horse riding opportunities.
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Hi! My name is Rubitah. I’m a Content Writer certified Life Coach, Counselor, Social Work professional and the Founder of Being Rubitah. Over the years through my professional and personal life, I have realized that prayers and love can do wonders to family life once you come to terms with yourself and surrender to God. Do you relate to me? Then you may like what I post here! Read more about me
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